This year's main holiday for my favourite person, Murphy and me took us to Croatia. We wanted to spend a week at the end of September heading south. Since our rented house, the Villa Maria in Brest pod Učkom, is big enough, Nina and Dave are joining us again.
In this part we take you along on a quick trip to the Plitvice Lakes and the climbing area Vela Draga. We visit the "town" of Hum and explore the Učka Nature Park right from our doorstep. The first highlights of a very special Istria experience we never want to miss again – even if not everything went according to plan.
Getting There and the Dream of the Plitvice Lakes
Friday and Saturday
Friday is our travel day, giving us Saturday to explore the Plitvice Lakes. After quite a long drive due to traffic jams and border checks, we reach our accommodation for the first night. Dinner, sleep, breakfast – and off we go to the breathtakingly beautiful Plitvice Lakes.
Plitvice Lakes
The UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site seems to attract what feels like 100,000 travellers on this very day. The masses of buses in the car park caught our eye straight away – but hey, since we're already here... "Let's give it a try!" The ticket booth moves fairly quickly, but unfortunately the hordes of tourists don't really thin out.
Swept along by the other tour groups, we let ourselves be carried with the flow for a while. Then suddenly it starts to rain. First lightly, then harder and harder. The tourists are well prepared and pull out their umbrellas. The sea of umbrellas and legs that Murphy and I have to navigate sends us fleeing.
Nina and Dave push on through. After the boat landing stage the crowds thankfully thin out and the two of them end up doing a long 19 km loop that day. Meanwhile, we take the coastal road towards our accommodation: the VILLA MARIA! But first, here are 3 impressions that give you a glimpse of the beauty of Plitvice:
Vela Draga
So we head on to our accommodation in the Učka National Park, but first we want to make a stop to stretch our legs. Conveniently, the nature reserve Vela Draga is right on the way when coming from Rijeka.
In this canyon-like valley, limestone towers up to 100 m high rise into the sky. A geological nature trail leads from the car park through the forest to a viewing platform. From there we enjoy the wonderful view over the landscape. It's also very popular as a climbing area.
Trail Details
- Pace: leisurely
- Walking time: approx. 30 minutes
- Duration: approximately 45 minutes including taking in the view and taking photos
- Distance: 1.5 km
- Ascent: 63 m
- Descent: 62 m
- Highest point: 463 m
- Lowest point: 409 m
Dog Facts
- short hike on gravel and forest paths
- wonderful views over "Vela Draga"
- No encounters with dogs or other animals
- No wildlife sightings, but plenty of interesting smells.
Our Dream Accommodation.
The Villa Maria in Brest pod Učkom
Then we head straight on to the Villa (more pictures here) in Brest pod Učkom. This village is about 8 minutes by car from the nearest town of Lupoglav and most likely has more goats than residents. Dogs, I'd guess, are probably as numerous as the villagers ;)
In this remote area in the Učka National Park, that really comes as no surprise.
Our landlord Richard welcomes us warmly. He explains the most important things and tells us to just have a look around wherever we like. He'll be back on Sunday anyway, for any questions and for Nina & Dave's details. So: unpack, settle in, and enjoy the wonderful garden (2,800 m2).
I booked the Villa Maria through the booking platform myistria.com. The 150 m2 house comfortably accommodates 4 people. There is one bathroom with a shower and bidet, plus an additional toilet with a generously sized washbasin.
The two bedrooms have comfortable beds and there is plenty of storage space. The very well-equipped kitchen opens onto the spacious living room, which has 4 doors leading out to the garden. On 2 sides of the terrace we find seating areas. The pool makes our hearts leap – unfortunately it stays a bit too cold for us all week – except for Dave, who at least braves it once ;)
On the right side of the garden we find a neat lawn area that's perfect for playing ball. Behind the pool, however, we discover rocks that are ideal for Murphy to jump and scramble over. A tavern with a charcoal grill offers yet another dining option.
The property is completely fenced in, though opposite the entrance there is a knee-high wall that more than one dog would likely hop over in no time. Some dogs live in the village and quite enjoy having a good chat in the evenings – worth knowing. Murphy definitely tried to learn Croatian :) – thankfully he didn't make it over the wall.
Pure Nature
Our neighbour in the village of Brest pod Učkom is a shepherd with around 60 goats and one livestock guardian dog. Almost every day (weather permitting) we get to watch him and his furry partner drive the nanny goats and kids past the Villa Maria garden, out to the meadow or back into the barn.
It's truly impressive how he lives in harmony with nature:
Hum – "the smallest town in the world"
Sunday
We sleep in, have a leisurely breakfast and dawdle about — just as a holiday should be. Richard visits us late in the morning and gives us some great tips. Since our stomachs are already rumbling again, we decide to act on one of them straight away. The "Konoba Kolinasi" is a traditional restaurant with typical Istrian cuisine in a warm, family atmosphere.
On the way to Hum we stop at one of the stations along the Glagolitic Alley. 11 points spread over 6 kilometres between Roč and Hum tell the story of the oldest Slavic script, the "Glagolica".
Next we head to Hum, where we pay a small fee for parking. The supposedly "smallest town in the world" is home to around 30 residents. We wander through the medieval-looking walls and let the atmosphere sink in.
Hiking right on our doorstep
Monday
Circular hike from Brest pod Učkom through Učka Nature Park
We actually planned to drive to the market in Buzet, but since it's storming and pouring with rain, we'd rather stay in our cosy four walls and laze around. At lunchtime my darling, Murphy and I pick up pizza from the nearest village, Lupoglav, at Pizzeria Alba.
After polishing off the rather hearty but absolutely delicious pizzas, we need some fresh air. Luckily the clouds have cleared. The wind is still going strong — which makes the air all the clearer! My sweetheart has planned an adventure tour for us starting right from the house.
The 3-hour tour begins with an ascent along a gravel track. Through the forest we reach a huge clearing where nature reveals itself in all its splendour. From the beautiful meadow we drop down into a river bed and follow it to grey gravel hills, where we branch off towards a small spring.
The detour gives us a chance for a break and some refreshments for everyone. We continue along forest and meadow paths — adventurous in places thanks to mud and steep sections. On one of the last clearings we bid farewell to the sun and find our way home in the late dusk.
An adventure hike through Učka Nature Park.
Anyone looking for peace, relaxation and nature will find it here!
Tour details
- Pace: leisurely with breaks
- Walking time: approx. 2:45 h
- Total duration: approx. 3:15 h
- Distance: 8.1 km
- Ascent: 350 m
- Descent: 366 m
- Highest point: 793 m
- Lowest point: 563 m
Dog facts
- Hike on gravel, forest and meadow paths
- No dog encounters
- No wildlife spotted, but definitely smelled
- No other hikers
- Pure nature!
- Trails are well marked
- Bring drinking water
*** This review of the accommodation reflects my entirely personal impression and experience.
I was not asked and not paid to write this. The stay was simply so relaxing and dog-friendly that I didn't want to keep it to myself. ***
Find out about the other great trips we took in Part 2 and Part 3!
