Today we have the 3rd and final part of our Croatia series for you. In this travel report we take you along on the Vojak – twice, no less! And then there are the side trips to the island of Krk and to Pula. You can read further down about the lovely route we found at Cape Kamenjak.
Anyone who wants to start from the beginning will find Part 1 here, with accommodation and hiking tips in Učka National Park, and Part 2 here, with tips for a city trip to Rovinj and a hike in Rabac.
Summit Seekers and Sun Worshippers
Thursday
Climbing the Vojak
After a leisurely breakfast we head off to Vela Učka, or more precisely Poklon. We park our car there and follow the well-marked trail through the forest to reach the summit of the Vojak at 1,396 m.
The trees are imposing, the path a steady climb upward. Plenty of stones and loose scree demand a sure footing. In return, the trail runs almost entirely in the shade, meaning we at least don't break a sweat from the sun.
On our steady ascent on foot we cross the driveable road to the summit a few times. Along the way the forest path repeatedly opens up to lovely views of Rijeka, Krk and the Mediterranean. Every now and then there are stone steps to negotiate, but for the most part we're walking on the forest track.
The Reward – the Summit
And when you finally reach the top, you're rewarded with a breathtaking view across all of Istria as well as towards Rijeka and the surrounding islands. And if the weary summit-seeker manages to climb the observation tower, you'll find yourself at 1,400 m and be treated to this magnificent panorama! We certainly weren't going to miss that ;)
We hike back down the same way to our car. Nearby, my other half finds a traditional restaurant called Dopolavoro, which specialises in game. We refuel there and relax for a while. After coffee we set off for Krk.
Route Data
- Pace: moderate
- Walking time: approx. 1 hr 45 min up, 1 hr 15 min down
- Total duration: just over 3.5 hours
- Distance: 7.2 km
- Ascent: 444 m
- Descent: 421 m
- Highest point: 1,401 m
- Lowest point: 934 m
Dog Facts
- Forest hike
- steady incline on forest tracks – with sections of scree and rock throughout
- almost entirely in the shade, but no water points for dogs (bring water!)
- no dog encounters on the hike that day
- barely any wildlife scent at the time of our visit – Murphy didn't alert to anything
- met a few other hikers
Evening Mood on Krk
Murphy gets to enjoy a comfortable snooze during the drive to Krk while we take in the passing scenery. We cross the toll bridge to the island and use Google Maps to find the nearest dog-friendly beach.
Sought – found! In a small cove we let the warm autumn sun warm our faces and watch the seagulls go through their aerial manoeuvres.
Starry Sky
We had a bit of a go at astrophotography.
That evening the tripod came out and we experimented. Finding the right settings wasn't easy at first, but with time we actually managed to produce some shots where you can make things out ;)
The stars around Villa Maria (our accommodation, which we introduced in Part 1) certainly gave it their all:
A Walk at Cape Kamenjak, a Pula City Stop & Vojak Part 2
Friday
Our last day arrives. We drive out to the southernmost tip of Istria. At Cape Kamenjak, a protected natural landscape, we want to do one last little tour. We park on the edge of Premantura, a fishing village, where we then treat ourselves to coffee and fresh pastries from the bakery.
First we cross a stretch of steppe meadow, passing a giant grasshopper (see first photo above), and then the enchanted forest begins, where we make our way over rocks, roots and tree trunks to the cliffy coastline. We find a lovely spot to take a break and watch a snorkeller out in what is quite a rough sea.
We continue along a varied trail running parallel to the coast. At a larger fork in the path we turn left to make our way back to the starting point. You can hike along almost the entire coastline of Cape Kamenjak on this trail.
Route details
- Pace: moderate
- Walking time: approx. 45 minutes
- Total duration: approx. 1 hour
- Distance: 2.7 km
- Ascent: 39 m
- Descent: 46 m
- Highest point: 41 m
- Lowest point: 2 m
Dog facts
- brief encounter with a free-roaming village dog in the car park (peaceful)
- hike through a varied forest
- ups and downs over rocks and tree trunks, like a natural obstacle course
- mostly shaded at the start, then sunny later on
- no water points for dogs (bring water!)
- met a few other hikers
- further south on the cape there are also easily accessible bays for dogs
A quick bit of sightseeing in Pula
On the way back we make a short stop in Pula, the largest city in Istria, where we admire the amphitheatre from the outside, stroll through the old town and visit the Kastel.
From the Kastel we have a wonderful view over Pula. The sculptures make a lovely backdrop for photos, and the museum inside presents various exhibitions on the history of Pula and Istria. For anyone interested in history, the modest entry fee is absolutely worth it.
Sunset at Vojak
And as the crowning finale of our Croatia trip, we head up Vojak a second time — but this time by car. One more time on this holiday, we want to watch the sun set over the Istrian peninsula.
We are not disappointed!!
The view across the countryside is simply breathtaking, and we know we want to come back here again.
Our overall impression of Croatia was thoroughly positive. The hospitality we were shown, as well as the warm welcome Murphy received wherever we went, are further reasons — alongside the beautiful country itself — that already have us dreaming of our next holiday in these southern climes.
