Hiking with a dog in the Höllental along the Schwarza, Lower Austria.

Murphy's dog buddy Zeus and his owner Lisa want to join us for a hike in the Höllental. It's the end of July and the heatwave has arrived in Austria too. Between Rax and Schneeberg, Lisa and I are hoping for a shady walk with spots along the water to cool off.

Since we both have time off, we decide on a Friday morning. We tackle the 1st Vienna Aqueduct Trail, which runs along the Schwarza from Hirschwang to Kaiserbrunn. The river provides the refreshment we need in the summer heat.

Setting Off for the Höllental

Friday, and at 8 o'clock sharp I enjoy the luxury of being picked up by Lisa. Murphy gets to ride in his crate on the back seat, while Zeus sleeps through the journey in his, in the boot. With a slight delay — petrol, snacks, and one junction missed (what can you do when two girls are chatting away...) — we arrive in Hirschwang and park Lisa's car in one of the car parks.

Hiking with a dog in the Höllental along the Schwarza, Lower Austria.

The two Frenchie boys are got ready for the hike, rucksacks are strapped on, and the four of us stroll a little way out of the village. To the right of the old hydroelectric power station, a narrow bridge — the "Windbrücke" — leads us onto the 1st Vienna Aqueduct Trail through the Höllental.

The Route Between Hirschwang and Kaiserbrunn

A word upfront — trust and teamwork between dog and human are essential on this route. A longer metal grate bridge, several grate staircases and secured paths are all part of the trail. Sturdy footwear is a must for sure footing.

Lisa and Zeus (also known as Zeuslbert) are seasoned hiking companions and set a comfortable pace. The roughly 7 km trail through the Höllental is perfectly manageable fitness-wise, but the terrain is definitely challenging. Murphy and Zeus take to the adventure hike along the river with enthusiasm.

A few steps up and we reach the track of the high-spring aqueduct. Soon there's access to the Schwarza on our left, where the two Frenchies cool their paws in crystal-clear water. A narrow forest path with a secured trail and the aforementioned metal grate bridge brings us to a lovely viewpoint.

From a rocky outcrop with a bench to rest on, you can look out over the Höllental and the shimmering green waters of the Schwarza. Fairly tight switchbacks lead us back down to the trail at river level. After a while we reach the main road, cross it, and arrive at a beautiful cove — wonderfully flat and spacious, perfect for letting the dogs into the water.

Rest Spots Along the 1st Vienna Aqueduct Trail

A short climb through the forest follows before grate staircases bring us back down to the level of the Schwarza. Soon we reach a long, sweeping cove, where we find a quiet, secluded little spot at the far end for our lunch break. Murphy revels in the icy, crystal-clear water, while Zeus focuses more on the snack distribution from his owner Lisa. ;)

Refreshed, we hike a bit further towards Kaiserbrunn, where a guesthouse was supposed to provide some sustenance. But at the next crossing of the main road, a barrier signals that both the final stretch of the path and the guesthouse are closed, so we turn around and make our way back along the same route to the starting point.

On the way back we notice that several beaches on the opposite bank are being used as swimming spots. After roughly 3½ hours we arrive back at Lisa's car, tired but happy. Zeus & Murphy are delighted to get into the car and sleep all the way back to Baden. Lisa and I enjoy our newfound "freedom" back in our trainers and let the day's impressions sink in.